Picking out there an autococker body is usually the most stress filled and exciting a part of starting a brand-new project. It's the soul of the particular marker, and if you've ever fallen lower the rabbit opening of paintball background, you know that not all body are created equal. Some people want that heavy, old-school feel of a solid block associated with aluminum, while some are chasing after the lightest, nearly all aggressively milled custom job they may find.
Whatever your feel is, the body you choose dictates almost everything else about your build—from the type of bolt you'll need to the specific valve size you need to hunt down. It's not only a covering; it's the building blocks with regard to the entire time cycle and the overall "feel" of how the marker shoots.
Learning the Pre-2k and 2k+ Split
Main things you'll come across when looking with regard to an autococker body will be the "Pre-2k" versus "2k+" variation. If you're brand-new to the system, this can be a total head ache. Basically, around the particular year 2000, WGP (Worr Games Products) decided to change the specs on their own front blocks plus banquet bolts.
The main difference is the particular size of the particular hole for the top block screw. Upon the older Pre-2k bodies, the opening is much smaller sized. This implies if you buy a contemporary front block or even a fancy fresh LPR, it may not fit without a good adapter—and even after that, it could be a clutter. The 2k+ bodies moved to a larger diameter for the front block mess, which allowed with regard to better air quantity and more balance. Most people these days strive for the 2k+ body mainly because the parts are just easier to find. If you discover a lovely vintage '98 body, just know you're going to be spending some extra time on eBay looking for specific legacy parts.
Full-Length, Mini, and Half-Block Styles
Once you've settled on the era, you need to decide how much of that autococker body you actually want to keep. The classic look is the full-length body. This will be where the back block travels back again and forth at the rear of the body, transporting the bolt. It's iconic, it's rhythmic, and it's exactly what most people believe of when they hear the word "Autococker. "
But then you have the Mini-cockers. On these, front side of the body is actually cut shorter, and the straight ASA (where your own regulator goes) is integrated into the front block itself. It makes the whole setup smaller, which was a huge deal back in the day when everybody wanted a tighter profile.
Then there's the Half-block and Mid-block movement. In this case, the very best "tube" of the autococker body is partly cut away. Rather of a heavy back block shifting toward your face, you have the tiny sled or a pin moving internally. It decreases reciprocating weight, which usually can technically associated with marker shoot smoother with less punch. Some purists detest the look, stating it ruins the classic silhouette, yet for a top-end tournament build, it's hard to claim with the pounds savings.
The particular Importance of Internal Specs
It's easy to obtain distracted by exactly how a body appears on the outside, but what's happening inside the tubes is usually what actually issues for performance. Regarding instance, the valve bore is the huge factor. Most standard bodies use a 9/16" valve, which is the industry standard. However, some high-end custom made bodies, like all those from Empire or certain boutique shops, use an 11/16" valve. This larger valve allows with regard to a lot more airflow from lower pressures, which usually can make the particular marker quieter and softer on vulnerable paint.
You also have to look at the bolt weary. If the internal finish of the autococker body is rough or scratched up through many years of neglect, your own consistency is heading to be all over the location. You want a smooth, refined top tube therefore the bolt may slide back and forth along with as little chaffing as possible. When you're buying an used body, constantly ask for photos associated with the internals. The beautiful exterior milling job doesn't indicate much if the particular inside looks such as it was washed with sandpaper.
The Feedneck Struggle
We can't talk about the particular autococker body without mentioning the feedneck. Older bodies generally have "pressed-in" feednecks. These are a massive pain because you can't just unscrew these to put on a modern clamping feedneck. Back in the 90s, we all just used electrical tape on this loading machines to make them fit, but no one wants to do that now.
If you're searching at a body that has the fixed, tall feedneck, you might have to send it away from to some machine store to get it "threaded" for Boss or even Empire specs. Several modern bodies come pre-threaded, which is a lifesaver. It lets you change out feednecks quickly so you can actually use a modern sophisticated loader without this falling off every single time you dive into a bunker.
Milling plus Aesthetics
Let's be real: fifty percent the main reason we love these markers is the "cool factor. " The autococker body offers a huge painting for artistic milling. You've got the particular classic "P-Block" designs, the swooping curves of an Orracle, or the aggressive, skeletal look of a Ripper.
Custom milling isn't just about appearance, though. It's furthermore about weight. The "slab" body is basically a heavy brick of metal. While that feels incredibly sturdy, it may get tiring in order to lug around just about all day during a big scenario video game. Professional milling stores can shave away from a significant amount associated with weight by eliminating excess material from the sides as well as the "tail" of the particular body. Just be careful to not move too thin—you don't want a body that's going to dent or warp if you take an awful spill around the field.
Getting a Body in Today's Market
Finding a standalone autococker body is a bit of the treasure look these days. You possess two main tracks: the used marketplace or the "new-old" boutique market.
Places like eBay or specialized Facebook groups are full of vintage bodies, but you have to be careful. Check the strings! The grip body screw holes and the ASA threads are notorious for getting stripped out by people over-tightening things. If those strings are gone, you're taking a look at a costly repair or a very expensive paperweight.
On the particular other hand, companies like Inception Designs or Freeflow are still producing "new" systems using modern COMPUTER NUMERICAL CONTROL tech. These are often superior in order to the originals because the tolerances are much tighter. They get the classic geometry and tweak it—fixing the feedneck issues, optimizing the device chambers, and ensuring everything is properly aligned. It's a bit more costly than buying the beat-up old prostock body, however it saves you a lot of headaches during the assembly stage.
Final Ideas on Your Build
At the end of the day, choosing a good autococker body is really a personal decision. If you want a piece associated with history, want the classic WGP or perhaps a Dye Reflex. If you want a machine that's going to compete with contemporary electronic markers upon a Sunday early morning, you search for a light-weight, mid-blocked powerhouse.
Just remember that anything you choose, you're investing in a specific set of parts. Before you click "buy, " create sure you understand if it's Pre-2k or 2k+, examine the feedneck style, and verify the device size. Once you have that basis set, all of those other build—the pneumatics, the body, and the bolt—will all start to get into place. It's a slow process, but there's nothing at all that can compare with the audio of a completely timed 'Cocker that you built yourself from the body up.